THE FEDERAL CITY OF BONN
THE FEDERAL CITY OF BONN
By Charles N. Stevens
Photos by Dolores Seidman
During the night we had left the Mosel River and turned into the Rhine, heading north. The river is flooded with pale blue moonlight, the only other light being that which eminates from the small towns we pass and the green running lights of the passing barges. A long passenger train passes by on the track following the river with its string of glowing windows. Morning dawns with a scattered pink sunrise, the temperature a milder 58 degrees.
Like most European cities, Bonn too was once a Roman settlement. In more modern times, from 1949 to 1990, it was the de facto capital of West Germany. Bonn remained the seat of government for United Germany from 1990 to1999, therefore the title, the Federal City of Bonn.
After docking at Bonn, we’re on our way for a walking tour of the city. We walk along the river then up a flight of stairs to the 18th century Palace of the Bishop of Cologne. The three-story palace is decorated with columns and gold statues and is surrounded with vast lawns and magnificent trees, their yellow autumn leaves scattered over the grass. As we stroll through the scene church bells ring from the city center. While walking the length of the palace, we realize how extensive it is and how much power and wealth the bishop and the church once possessed. Built in baroque style, the golden yellow building was designed to impress, to reflect status and power. Today, the bishop gone, the palace is a part of Bonn University.
Moving on, we come to the Romanesque St. Cassius and Florentius Church, named after saints who had been beheaded. Two large stones sculptures of their severed heads lie scattered next to the church. Legend has it that that Cassius and Florentius were members of the Roman Theban Legion made up entirely of Christians. When they refused to attack a group in Gaul who were also Christians, the commanders decapitated them, possibly on the spot where the church now stands. The church, also called the Bonn Minster, is one of the oldest churches in Germany, having been constructed between the 11th and 13th centuries.
We admire the three great spires rising from the church as bells clanging loud and long, call the people to mass. We pass through its massive doors and take seats in the back, surprised to see that the priest is black. Adorned in bright green vestments, he speaks through a series of loudspeakers, his voice echoing in the stony vastness of the interior, the sound so loud we can feel the vibrations in our bodies. As he speaks I look up at the high white arched ceiling and over at the flickering glow of candles.
Out of the church, we stand in the vast munsterplatz, looking up at the statue of Beethoven, now covered with a thin green patina. His face is serious, almost grim, as though he is concentrating on his music, thinking about that next note. He holds a pen in one hand and a sheaf of music in the other. Born in Bonn in 1770, he lived here for the first 22 years of his life. Only later did he move to Vienna to study with the masters. Portraits of Beethoven also show that intense look of concentration.
Moseying on to another platz, we ogle the shop windows, but since it is Sunday, almost all of them are closed, the only business open being restaurants, bakeries and food stands to serve the Sunday strollers. We are struck by the town hall with its rococo white and cream magnificence topped by a dark mansard roof. The sun reflects off its gilded clock and the city seal and crown guarded by fierce golden lions.
We walk to the Beethoven home and look at it from the outside. The three story house, pink with white trim, black shutters adjacent to every window, is grander than I thought it would be. Beethoven’s grandfather had been a bass singer in the court of the Elector of Cologne, and Beethoven’s father was a tenor in the same establishment but earned extra money by giving piano and violin lessons. Apparently he earned enough to afford a house of this size.
In the afternoon we lounged around town, pausing to look at people. So many were out strolling around town, even though it was Sunday. Most walk, but others skate, jog, ride bicycles or push baby strollers. Some ride bicycles with small children on back. One bike hauls a small trailer with a dog inside, the dog looking perfectly happy.
Back on our river boat I watch the local ferry taking people across the river. Barges pass by frequently, pushing up a mound of water as they ply the river. Since it is the weekend, many Germans are out on the river in speed boats, jet skis and kayaks. It is good to see everyone so active, so content.
The l8th Century Palace of the Bishop of Cologne is decorated with columns and gold statues and is surrounded by vast lawns and magnificent trees.
We admire the three great spires rising from the Bonn Munster Church as bells clanging loud and long call the people to mass.
The town hall with its rococo white and cream magnificence topped by a dark mansard roof impressed us.
Beethoven's three story house, pink with white trim is grander than we expected.
MONTEREY PARK AUTHOR PUBLISHES 3RD BOOK ABOUT HIS EXPERIENCES IN WORLD WAR II- BACK FROM COMBAT
Charles “Norm” Stevens, a 40 year resident of Monterey Park and World War II Veteran has recently published the 3rd in his series about his experiences in WW II, Back from Combat: A WWII Bombardier Faces His Military Future. This book details the time from when he returned from combat in England where he flew 34 missions over Germany and France until the end of the war. Faced with large numbers of returning combat vets, and not knowing how long the war would continue, the military had to plan for their future. His options were whether to return to combat, become an instructor in the U.S., or receive new training that he would use in the Pacific. The book concludes with the end of the war with an Afterward that includes an update on the B-l7’s still flying in the U.S., as well as present day accounts pertaining to the war.
Stevens is the author of two previous books about his experiences:
An Innocent at Polebrook: A Memoir of an 8th Air Force Bombardier (Story of his 34 bombing missions from his base at Polebrook, England over Germany and France)
The Innocent Cadet: Becoming A World War II Bombardier (A prequel to the first, telling of his training in the U.S. before going overseas into combat.)
He is known to the readers of The Citizen’s Voice as the author of Travel Log Articles including “From Paris to Normandy on the Seine”, “Exploring New York” and “In Search of Snow.” He is retired, having taught for 32 years, primarily in the Montebello Unified School District.
Those interested in purchasing an autographed copy of any of his books, may contact the author at 323-721-8230 or Normstevens24@gmail.com.
